Slow Living, Lilacs & Long Lunches: A Spring Escape to Uzès, France

Let’s get one thing straight: if you're going to Provence in the Spring and you're not interested in elbowing your way through lavender-scented souvenir shops or queueing for a photo in Gordes—you go to Uzès.

Tucked between Nîmes and Avignon, Uzès is what you imagine France feeling like, but never quite find in the high season. Think: shutters slightly open, wisteria crawling over old stone, and streets that smell faintly of thyme, lilac, and something warm baking.

Spring is when Uzès quietly wakes up. And if you’re after a trip that feels like a deep breath, this is your spot.

Getting There

You don’t need a car, but it helps. The easiest route is to fly into Nîmes or Montpellier, then rent a car and drive 45–60 minutes. Uzès itself is compact, so once you’re there, everything is walkable.

If you’re not driving, you can take a train to Nîmes or Avignon, then grab a regional bus (line B21) straight to Uzès. It’s surprisingly simple and very doable with light luggage.

Where to Stay: Courtyards & Shutters Required

La Maison d’Uzès

La Maison d’Uzès

You want charm, walkability, and ideally, a courtyard with lemon trees or a view of a bell tower. A few beautiful options:

  • La Maison d’Uzès – Boutique hotel with a spa and rooftop views. Right in the historic center.

  • Les Toits d’Uzès (Airbnb) – A restored apartment with a private terrace and original tile floors.

  • L’Alcôve – A cozy chambre d’hôtes with home-cooked breakfast and garden corners made for journaling.

What to Do (Or Not Do)

1. Saturday Market Mornings

Market mornings are the coziest

Uzès has one of the best Provençal markets, and in April-May it’s still mostly locals picking up spring greens, strawberries, and wild herbs. Go early (before 10 am) and take your time.

La Nougatine

Grab a warm croissant from La Nougatine, pick up a bunch of lilacs or a block of aged goat cheese, and people-watch from the edge of Place aux Herbes.

2. Wisteria Walks

Wisteria season is real in Uzès. You’ll spot cascades of soft purple flowers on side streets, over café doors, and even trailing along alleyways. For an easy loop, wander from Rue du Dr Blanchard to Rue du 4 Septembre, then over to Rue Saint-Théodorit.

Go mid-morning or just before golden hour. It smells better than any candle.

Rue Saint-Théodorit

Rue Saint-Théodorit

3. Lunch Somewhere That Writes Its Menus By Hand

Our pick? La Table d’Uzès (Michelin-starred but still relaxed) or Ma Cantine for something more casual but seasonal. In spring, menus shift to include dishes with wild garlic, fresh asparagus, and local lamb.

Don’t skip dessert. The strawberries are serious here.

ma cantine

Ma Cantine

4. Walk to the Eure Valley

If you need a real leg stretch (but still want it peaceful), take the chemin des Capitelles from town to the Vallée de l’Eure. It’s about a 20-minute walk down through the old Roman aqueduct trail. You’ll find wild thyme, mossy walls, and benches where you can just sit and think.

Locals walk their dogs here. That’s the energy.

chemin des Capitelles

5. Evening Wine on the Steps

One of the best things you can do in Uzès? Grab a glass of local rosé or a bottle of something crisp from the Duché d’Uzès appellation and sit on the steps of Place du Duché at sunset.

People stroll by. Kids ride bikes. The air cools down and smells like warm stone and blooming herbs. It’s a small ritual that makes you feel at home.

What to Pack for a Spring Escape in Uzès

  • Layers (mornings and evenings are cool)

  • A straw bag for market hauls

  • Comfy walking shoes for cobblestones

  • A small notebook (you’ll want to write here)

  • Allergy meds if you’re sensitive to blooms (Uzès in April is perfumed with pollen)

FAQ: Uzès, France in Spring

Is Uzès worth visiting in April?
Absolutely. Flowers are blooming, crowds are minimal, and the weather is just warm enough for patio lunches.

How long should I stay in Uzès?
2-4 nights is ideal. Long enough to reset, short enough to leave you wanting more.

Can I visit without speaking French?
Yes! Locals are kind and used to visitors. A few phrases go a long way (and Google Translate helps).

Is it safe for solo travelers?
Yes. Uzès is calm, walkable, and has a very relaxed vibe that’s ideal for solo slow travel.

Are there any day trips from Uzès?
You can easily visit Pont du Gard, Nîmes, or the Camargue wetlands if you want a little adventure.

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