This is for the traveler who doesn’t want to be seen—but wants to feel something.

You won’t stumble upon Vals. It’s not on a classic Swiss itinerary, and there are no glossy brochures shouting its name at Zurich Airport. But that’s the point. This small alpine village, nestled in the canton of Graubünden, is where you go when you want to disconnect completely—in the most nourishing way possible.

Spring in Vals is a slow, beautiful in-between. Snow is still melting off the peaks, but the valleys are alive with crocus blooms and the sound of water running everywhere. There’s no itinerary here. Just morning mist, mountain air, and a minimalist thermal spa that somehow manages to silence your thoughts.

This isn’t a travel guide. It’s a permission slip to pause.

Why Vals in Spring Feels Like a Well-Kept Secret

Let’s get one thing clear—Vals isn’t the place you “pop into” on your way somewhere else. You choose it. You commit to the quiet. And in return, it gives you more than just pretty views.

In spring, Vals feels like a storybook thawing into life:

You’ll hear snowmelt cascading down the cliffs before you see it
Tiny alpine flowers push through the last patches of snow
The air is cold enough for sweaters, but warm enough to sit outside with a blanket and tea

Most tourists are still chasing après-ski in the big resorts this time of year. That leaves Vals to the people who aren’t rushing. Artists. Architects. Walkers. People who want more than just a view—they want a feeling.

The Thermal Spa That Deserves Its Own Pilgrimage

Let’s start with the thing that quietly put Vals on the map.

♨️ Therme Vals – Designed by Peter Zumthor

This is not your average spa. Built directly over the only thermal springs in Graubünden, the Therme is made of over 60,000 slabs of local quartzite and feels less like a wellness complex and more like a modern-day sanctuary carved into the mountains.

But here’s the secret: it’s not luxurious in the traditional sense. It’s minimalist. Intentional. You don’t come here for selfies in bathrobes. You come to float in silence, your skin soaking in minerals as mist rises through the open-air pool and the snow-covered peaks reflect in the water.

💡Tripper Tip: Go at opening (usually 11 AM) for the quietest experience. Bring a book, but you might not even open it.

💡Cost: CHF 80 for a day pass (as of 2024). Worth. Every. Franc.

Where to Stay: Cozy Beds, Clean Design, and Local Breakfasts

Vals has just the right number of places to stay: not many. And that’s a good thing.

🏡 Brücke 49 Boutique Guesthouse

📍Right in the village center
A Scandinavian-style hideaway with just a handful of rooms, Brücke 49 is all about tactile luxury. Think sheepskin throws, concrete walls warmed by candles, and breakfasts that feel like they were made just for you (because they were).

It’s the kind of place where you leave your shoes at the door and slow your breathing the moment you enter.

💡Tripper Tip: Book Room 4 if available—it has mountain views and a deep bathtub made for slow evenings after the spa.

🪵 Pension Alpina – For Simplicity & Stillness

📍5-minute walk from the spa
A family-run guesthouse with simpler rooms but unbeatable views and warm hospitality. Breakfast includes homemade jams, Alpine butter, and hot barley porridge with fruit compote in spring.

💡Tripper Tip: Ask for a room with a balcony—watching the fog lift over the mountains while wrapped in a blanket is… well, you’ll see.

Spring Wanders Through Blooming Meadows and Forest Paths

You don’t need to be a hardcore hiker to explore Vals in spring. The magic is in the softest walks—the kind where you stop to listen to water dripping from a branch or crouch to smell early alpine crocus pushing through a patch of lingering snow.

🌸 Valser Talweg (Vals Valley Trail)

Difficulty: Easy
Length: Choose your own pace (1–4 hours)
Follow the Valser Rhine River as it snakes through meadows dotted with wildflowers and abandoned alpine barns. In spring, everything smells like pine, earth, and thawing stone.

💡Tripper Tip: Pack a snack from the local bakery (yes, we’re getting to that) and find a sunny stone to sit on near the water. You may not see another person for an hour.

🌲 Selva Forest Loop

Difficulty: Easy
A quiet trail that loops through the edge of the forest just outside the village. Good for foggy mornings when the mountains disappear and you just want to walk in silence.

💡Tripper Tip: This trail is especially beautiful after rain—mossy, magical, and full of birdsong.

Food we love

Spring food in Vals is about warming the body and honoring the land. Don’t expect trendy menus or Instagrammable plates. Expect dishes that have been passed down through generations, served in rooms that smell faintly of woodsmoke and wild herbs.

🍲 Valser Gerstensuppe (Barley Soup)

You’ll find it at almost every Gasthaus, and it’s different everywhere. Barley, root vegetables, sometimes ham, sometimes fresh mountain herbs. It’s simple, hearty, and deeply satisfying.

🧀 Alpine Cheese Fondue with Spring Herbs

Not just a winter dish—many locals prepare a lighter version in spring using fresh cow’s milk cheese and herbs like wild garlic or chives.

Best enjoyed at:

🧀 Gasthaus Glenner

📍Main road in Vals
Wood-paneled, cozy, and family-owned. Ask for a window seat and let the fondue do its thing.

💡Tripper Tip: If they have the mountain herb salad on the menu, order it as a starter. It’s foraged locally and only available in spring.

🍞 Backerei Peng Vals

📍Right in the village
This tiny bakery serves dark rye rolls, buttery croissants, and fruit tarts that change with the season. The owner is often the one behind the counter and knows exactly what time you’ll want your second pastry.

💡Tripper Tip: Grab a still-warm roll in the morning and take it on your forest walk. You won’t need anything else.

Getting to Vals: The Scenic, Slow Way

Vals isn’t hard to reach, but it does require intention. Which fits the vibe perfectly.

🚆 From Zurich

Train from Zurich HB to Chur (~1 hr 15 min)
Train from Chur to Ilanz (~30 min)
Postbus from Ilanz to Vals (~45 min)

The final stretch—from Ilanz to Vals—is where the magic begins. Winding roads, alpine valleys, villages that barely look real.

💡Tripper Tip: Sit on the right side of the bus for views over the valley. If you get motion sick, bring ginger chews—it’s a curvy ride, but worth it.

What to Pack for a Swiss Spring Reset

Spring in the Alps is a bit of everything—sunshine, snowmelt, chill winds, blooming meadows. Here’s what you’ll want in your bag:

A warm sweater or fleece (you’ll wear it daily)
Light waterproof jacket (for surprise mountain drizzle)
Comfy walking shoes or hiking boots
A scarf or wool hat (mornings are still cold)
A swimsuit (for the spa, obviously)
A book that makes you feel something

💡Tripper Tip: Don’t overpack. You’ll want to travel light, especially if you’re arriving by train. And honestly, you won’t need more than a few outfits.

We love Vals, will you?

Vals isn’t for everyone. It’s for people who enjoy quiet more than conversation. People who don’t mind sitting in a hot spring alone with their thoughts. People who wake up excited for misty mountain views and a breakfast that tastes like someone cared.

In spring, it’s especially peaceful. The kind of peaceful that doesn’t show up in pictures.

If your idea of luxury is space—mental and physical—Vals will feel like coming home to a part of yourself you forgot existed.

So come with an open heart. Bring your journal, your favorite sweater, and no plans. Just let the silence do its work.

Want more alpine hideaways and soulful spring escapes?
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Blossoms and Thermal Baths: A Slow Spring Retreat in Vals, Switzerland